Image sourced from the internet.

Sweet summer memories for most of us involve climbing mango trees to pluck all the fresh fruit our hands could possibly reach. The mangoes of Goa are second to none, and the state is among the producers of the highest number of varieties of this delicious summer fruit. However, one particular local Goan mango trumps all others - Mankhurad!

Also known as Goa Mankur, Kurad, Malcorado, Corado etc, Mankhurad first entered the Goan belt in the early 1600s with the Portuguese travelers. With a cultivation history that spans centuries, this Goan variety has grown to become only sweeter with time. Today, the Portuguese Malcorado, is shipped all across India for its distinct taste and finds its way to the Goan summer table as fresh fruit, as well as jams, compotes and ice creams.

Life around the Mankhurad at Navovado

We were lucky to find five full grown, fruiting, and gloriously canopied Mankhurad trees on site when we began our design-development project Navovado. We have consciously preserved the vegetation and designed a modern Goan house around these magnificent mango trees that give us fresh, bountiful harvests in the summer and are a glorious green sight for sore eyes throughout the year.

Goa’s beaches are moving works of beauty and serenity and are packed with incredible biodiversity. We are spending time today observing the textures of the in between - equally of earth and equally of sea.

Grounded in Goa is a series that documents the everyday beauties and joys of living in Goa, in harmony with the fertile land, changing skies, and the giving waters.

As people move from cities in search of a better quality of life, Goa is often the first choice as it offers the perfect balance of the urban and the countryside. It makes room for a simple but luxurious lifestyle that celebrates the changes in nature, vegetation, and climate throughout the year. From Kokum in the late winter to cashews and mangoes in the summer to the famous kom and pipri in the monsoon, life in Goa is very much about savouring the bounties of seasonal living.

Come summer, it is cashew season in Goa and the trees are laden with fruits in sunset colours - the cashew tree swells with ripe produce in shades of red, yellow and orange. Between late February and early April, a majority of cashew harvest is carried out. Picking days are planned and cashew trails are organised as fruit is separated from nut. The freshly collected cashew nut is then prepared for the market - split, roasted, and seasoned before it makes it way to different parts of Goa, India, and beyond. The fresh cashew fruit however is carefully preserved and fashioned into a Goan summer delicacy. As the days grow warm outside, the Goan cashew fruit makes different appearances on the table throughout the season: first Niro, then Urrak, and finally Feni.

NIRO

After the fallen cashew apples are de-seeded, the fruits are thrown into a stomp pit and finely crushed to extract the juice. Sweet, sour and slightly pungent, the juice is collected into an earthen pot. In this fresh form, the juice called Niro has a shelf life of only a few hours and therefore, it is not commonly sold as a market product even within Goa. It is only within Panaji's oldest bakery, Mr. Baker 1922, that one would find bottled Niro, packaged under strict hygienic conditions and sold seasonally between March and May.

URRAK

All images have been sourced from the internet.

Once the fresh cashew juice is collected, it is stored in large terracotta pots and buried underground to ferment for three days. This first fermentation results in a high-quality, fruity alcohol called Urrak made precious by its short shelf life that lasts only a few weeks. Found in local bars but primarily in old Goan houses, Urrak is a seasonal drink that is a matter of great Goan pride, much like Sake from Japan or Chaang from the Himachali hills. The Goans typically enjoy their Urrak as a summer afternoon cocktail - topped with fresh cold limca, a dash of fresh lemon juice, a sprinkle of salt and paprika, and a chilli dunked.

FENI

Finally, there’s the popular Feni, which finds a place among the world’s strongest liquors. Feni is the second distillation of cashew pulp after Urrak and is found year-round in the coastal state. This summer elixir is either barrel-aged or copper pot distilled and then filtered for smoothness. Today, homegrown Goan distilleries like Aani Ek give the robust Feni a flavourful twist. The distinct local branding is also found in brands like Lembarca (in the image above), which to date carries a hand sketched label crafted by iconic Goan artist Mario Miranda.

---

Goa is a land of incredible natural and cultural diversity.

Learn more about Goa’s famous native landscape here.

To know more about where to live in Goa, visit this blogpost.

Finally, if you’re interested in buying a house in Goa, use this checklist.

---

Life in Goa has a laid-back, luxurious simplicity that is hard to come by in most of our cities today. People who move here are typically looking to leave the rat race behind in pursuit of a slower lifestyle that offers infinite and diverse opportunities to live in harmony with the land, to embrace the local culture, to enjoy the natural abundance as well as savour the bounties brought by changing seasons.

While Goa is a small state, each of its neighbourhoods offer different and unique living experiences. For anyone who is considering moving to Goa or buying a house in Goa, here is a detailed analysis of what one can expect from the neighbourhoods of North Goa.

PANJIM & ITS SURROUNDINGS

Image sourced from The Culture Trip.

PROS:

As the capital city, Panjim is extremely well connected and relatively easier to access. It is a quaint and small town that bridges the old and the new - it offers modern residential amenities while also retaining historic neighbourhoods such as Fountainhas. Panjim, is at its core, a residential area primarily and therefore also has a robust presence of schools around. It is also close to the beach stretches of Miramar, Caranzalem, and Dona Paula.

CONS:

It may not be easy to get a large, spacious house with a backyard in Panjim. The houses available are largely present in apartments and the availability of outdoor space within a plot is hard to come by.

ALDONA, MOIRA & POMBURPA

Image sourced from Tripoto.com

PROS:

Located to the east of the highway, these are quaint villages in North Goa that are positioned at a distance from the beach belt and are therefore saved from Goa’s maddening tourist crowds. The villages offer a quiet lifestyle meant for people who want to coexist with locals and enjoy the real Goa. However, these areas have been gaining popularity over the last ten years as prime locations for countryside vacation homes. These areas typically contain vacation houses built by expats and Indians who live abroad.

CONS:

It is a bit of a trek to the beach from these areas. The closest beaches are about 40-45 minutes away. These areas are also sought after for their pristine and undisturbed natural habitats. Thus, one should expect to entertain the local flora and fauna in their home.

ASSAGAO & SIOLIM

Image sourced from Ghoomophiro.com

PROS:

These were traditionally well-to-do villages that today have some gorgeous and large heritage houses. These villages are closer in proximity to the beach belt and see a lot of local as well as tourist activity. The neighbourhood hosts multiple restaurants and stores of different kinds, so it is charged with buzz, life, and movement throughout the day.

CONS:

Unfortunately, the quintessential quietude of Goa is no longer to be found in these areas. Commercial activity has taken over and most parts of these villages are overbuilt in the name of development.

NERUL, BETHE & REIS MAGOS

Image sourced from Alvira-Ventures

PROS:

These are pictureque villages that are steeped in history. They are also strategically located. Positioned midway between the Candolim beach belt and Panjim, they make the beachside as well as the townside easily accessible.

CONS:

Gentrification has rapidly taken over these areas as well. It may be possible to get a beautiful row house in these areas, however, bigger houses and larger plots will not be easy to come by.

To compare North Goa and South Goa, visit our analysis here.

To know more about building a house in Goa, read our series: Designing a House in Goa

If there is one market that truly embodies the spirit of Goa, it has to be Mapusa Market. Mapusa is an incredible medley of sight, sound and colour everyday but its Friday bazaars are a sight to behold. It comes alive with the swish of textile, the clang of metal and the aroma of fresh spices as local vendors from all over Goa flock together to sell their wares.

Mapusa Market has always been one of the primary centers for trade and shopping in Goa for many decades now. In fact, the story goes that the market grew to be so significant, that the town that developed around it was derived from the business conducted at the market. The Konkani words, “map” (meaning to measure) and “sa” (meaning to fill up) are combined to form the word mapusa.

We came across some brilliant visual documentation of Mapusa’s repair shops, fabric stores flower bazaars, and condiment outlets curated by the Mapping Mapusa Market project and this blogpost is an ode to the exhaustive research that they have done.

Stories of Repair and Recycle by Sahil Konkar

A series of videos by Sahil and Prashant that heroes the people that put our lives together. Read more about the famous repair points in Mapusa Market here and watch them in action using the playlist below.

Flower Power by Mythili Borkar

Flower Power immortalises the potent yet delicate imagery that make up Mapusa’s flower bazaar, as well as the aspirations tied to them. Find the seies in focus here.

Mapping Sugarcane by stanzinlosal

The story of 8 sugarcane juice shops spread across Mapusa Market, Goa has been mapped and developed into short films. Find this lovely story here.

Completed in 2014, these visual histories offer amazing perspective into the Mapusa and Goa of today and the many layers of their making. It helps develop a cohesive understanding of the relationships between place, space, activity, and community.

If you are ever in Goa, definitely pay a visit to witness the life and times of Mapusa Market.

To read about the different places and experiences Goa has in store for you, visit our map - Goa At A Glance.

To know more about North and South Goa, visit our blogpost on North Goa vs South Goa

To visit South Goa’s stunning bungalows, take a look at our top picks here.

It has been more than a year since I last visited Goa and I find myself often turning to memories of fresh Goan food, a definite shortcut to paradise. Here is a collection of some incredible recipes, food documentation, a list of restaurants and some stunning art brought together by their celebration of Local Goan food.

Food reporting is at once an incredible guide to the local cuisine and a reliable way of mapping the life and times of a particular place and culture. Joanna Lobo is a freelance writer from Goa, and finds a way to magically weave her experiences of living in Goa into her stories about Goan food. Here is a collection of essays and stories from her. I particularly recommend - How I Tried (and failed) To Master The Goan Bebinca Cake.

The Goan Sorpotel. Illustration by Anna Vu.

For someone in Goa, looking for the best seafood joints, we have a list curated by LBB. The list looks at offbeat restaurants that are typically not on the tourist map, but wildly popular for their authenticity among the locals. Find the restaurants here.

On the other hand, if you wish to visit Goa from the comfort of your homes, here is something you could look at. Goya Journal does a wonderful job of mapping Goan food history and diversity. Find their articles on Goan Food here.

Great food nourishes the body and great art nourishes the soul. What could be better than them coming together? We love this visual recipe of the famous Goan Xacuti Curry, created by illustrator Shruti Prabhu. In her words: “Goan cuisine is strongly influenced by the Portuguese, since they ruled Goa till 1961. Xacuti (Chacuti in Portuguese) is spicy curry made either with chicken or crabs. The roasted spices give such a lovely aroma to this recipe. You can tone down the heat by reducing the number of chillies.”

Finally, we’d be remiss if we did not mention a spectacular food tour that is happening right now across Goa, hosted by renowned chef Thomas Zacharias. Chef T Zac as he is commonly known, is popular for his #ChefontheRoad series where he drives through different parts of the country, and does everything from culinary lessons in home kitchens, to interactions with locals in villages, to foraging for indigenous seasonal ingredients, to visits to local markets, and eating out in quaint restaurants. #COTRgoa is an extensive sensory map of quintessentially Goan culinary heritage and can be found on the chef’s Instagram as well as Twitter pages.

We wish you happy adventures on your culinary expeditions. Write to us with your favourite recommendations in the comments below.

There’s nothing more delightful than chancing upon an old comic book and sitting down to read the old stories all over again. To my excitement, I found a battered copy of Tinkle Digest printed 13 years ago, in 2008, and within it, a small tribute to our favourite Goa. Instantly transported me to the old churches and the Portuguese architecture, the sights and sounds of the wildlife and the seaside, the ever tempting scents of the bakeries and the unforgettable Goan thalis - in an nutshell, back to my life, times and memories in this truly special place. Enjoy.

I recently conducted an IG Live on taking A Site Positive Approach. As a follow up to that, I conducted another video session to get into details and answer pertinent questions about Rainwater Harvesting. I discuss the elements that make up a RWH system, compare the differences between rural and urban water management systems, and introduce some of the various options available for harvesting water. I also speak about the Goan monsoon patterns and the site specific methods that are useful in tropical areas. As an example, I explain the simple but effective well system created at Navovado, our completed vacation house in Goa. I also explore natural water systems such as ponds and bioswales which we have physically implemented at our project The House with Three Pavilions in Goa.

A few years ago we were set the task of designing an outdoor spa for one of our projects. The site was a house in Goa and surrounded by spectacular heritage buildings with unique forms and features that are no longer found in present day construction. We decided to use this as the inspiration and decided on a relaxing outdoor spa which would embody some of these details and elements found in these quaint, old structures. We set out to map and document these historic houses, institutions, and simple details of Goa through photographs and drawings. The illustrations below are part of this extensive archival project, and a fun take on some of the beautiful Chapels and Gateways that characterise Old Goa.

Goa is beautiful and rich in its diversity. It has something to offer to every visitor. In this blogpost, we have created a quick map with some of Goa’s best - your very own printable checklist of what to see, where to go and what to do over your next Goa trip. The map has a mix of old houses in Goa, its most popular beaches, the best natural and wildlife sanctuaries in Goa among other popular destinations. For a detailed breakdown of the differences and similarities between North Goa and South Goa, click on the map to read our analysis comparing the two districts.

---