PC Parnavi Bangar

A compelling statue of Abbe Faria has been standing in the middle of a public square in Panjim, for 75 years, depicting him hypnotizing a woman. At a liminal place, between the current Panjim city and the history of Goa, with a forgotten legacy.  

Abbe Faria

(31 May 1756 – 20 September 1819)

was a Goan Catholic priest and one of the pioneers in the scientific study of hypnotism. Born José Custódio de Faria in Candolim, Bardez, Goa, he moved to Lisbon with his father in 1771.

Convincing the King of Portugal to support his studies, he went to Rome to pursue the priesthood, earning a doctorate and another degree focused on the Holy Spirit.

Faria departed from the then-popular theory of "magnetic fluid" in hypnotism, emphasizing instead the power of suggestion and the concept of autosuggestion. He demonstrated that what he termed "nervous sleep" was a natural state, laying the groundwork for modern hypnotism.

Faria’s impact extended beyond his scientific work; he also inspired the character Abbé Faria in Alexandre Dumas' 1844 novel "The Count of Monte Cristo." In the novel, the character is an imprisoned priest who teaches the protagonist various skills, reflecting Faria's real-life intellectual legacy.

PC Gaurav Sawant

Interestingly, the statue's location across from the gaudy casino boats on the Mandovi River offers a striking contrast. This juxtaposition encourages tourists to consider Goa beyond its party image, appreciating its rich history and Panjim’s historic urban fabric. The statue is hard to miss for those living in Goa or driving into Panjim, forgotten but in plain sight.

At Grounded, we design villas in Goa that embrace the cultural roots of the state. Each of our projects reflects the essence of living in Goa, connecting with the rich heritage and slow, peaceful ‘Sussegad’ lifestyle. You’ll find home objects familiar to Goa in every corner of our designs, from rooster-shaped water jugs to coconut shell spoons and charming terracotta figurines. 

To find these unique artifacts we love to go treasure hunting at the special Friday market of Mapusa in North Goa. A labyrinth of streets, the market is filled with local flavor and vigor. Village ladies travel from all over Goa to sell their wares, local produce, and home-cooked goodies. 

mapusa market, north goa

In the bylanes, there is a section dedicated to the local terracotta pottery only on Fridays. Along with the famous Goan terracotta roof figurines, one can find other lovely pieces of pottery like terracotta wall hangings, Ghumotts (terracotta musical instruments), piggy banks, pots, and a lot more. It is the pinnacle of local arts and crafts. The collection keeps changing as new designs and new pieces are made. Every item is handmade, showcasing craftsmanship and offering a glimpse into the traditional Goan way of life.

Terracotta pottery and figurines

Whether you’re looking for unique Goan home décor or simply want to immerse yourself in retail therapy, this market is a must-visit for finding Goan treasures in North Goa. Everything from local pottery to everyday life is available here in one place. 

Read more about the Mapusa market here. 

Read about the significance of Terracotta Figurines. 

At Grounded, where our office has been in Goa since 2010, we often go on heritage walks and bird-watching expeditions as a team to get to know each other as well as to get to know Goa. This time, we ventured into South Goa, villages of Assolna and Velim for a heritage walk organized by the Museum of Christian Art. Headed by Clive Figueiredo and Noah Fernandes. Our walk began at the Holy Cross Chapel Baradi, with stunning views of the area that we were about to explore. Followed by St. Francis Xavier Church, Velim, and Regina Martyrum Church, Assolna. 

Goa has more spoken traditions than written records. One such cultural tradition makes Velim village, important for the locals. The Churches here are not as elaborate as the churches in the north or other parts of Goa but have a historical importance. We started with St. Francis Xavier Church, Velim established in the 19th century. The facade of this chapel has a bell tower at the top center which is neoclassical, and has minimal features having IHS insignia. The facade can also be counted as Art Deco in Goa because of the sunburst on the sides. 

As we went inside the Church we were briefed about the iconography associated with elaborate features of the structure. For example, in Asolna the majority of locals are shipbearers so the Our Lady in the church holds a silver or wooden carved ship in her hand. We also learned about dying features like the Pulpit. Which is not in use anymore and some churches are removing those elements. In this church, because the staircase on the other side of the wall leading to the pulpit is now removed, it just floats on the wall with no way to access it. 

Pulpit

As the time passes, both the churches have gone through some modifications. We learned how by observing the color, sometimes the material, and intricacy in ornamentation we can tell the time period of that object. Both the churches we visited were of a different time -so we could observe the variations in detail and changes done over time. 

Our final stop was Regina Martyrum Church, Assolna. There is photographic evidence of this church having a fort wall remains in its premises back in the day. This chapel was more elaborate and huge with its school premises, offices, cemetery, and the Cristo Rei monument! We learned about the church and its mosaic tiles, wooden carvings, and iconography. One of the most fascinating moments of the walk was exploring the closet of ceremonial items inside the church building. 

It was a very good effort by the Museum of Christian Art to bring together a group of interested people from different backgrounds. We were also accompanied by residents from the Museum of Christian Art Society for the walk. The heritage walk was not just for architects, it was a wonderful gathering of local enthusiasts, conservationists, and historians, all passionate about Goa's rich cultural fabric. Whether you're living in Goa or you are new to Goa, this heritage walk can help you connect with the city a little better.

Holy Cross Chapel, Baradi

St. Francis Xavier Church, Velim

Regina Martyrum Church, Assolna

Cristo Rei, Assolna

Read more about South Goa and Goan Heritage

During a recent visit to HH Art Spaces in Aldona, Goa opened in 2014, I saw the ‘Déjà vu’ exhibition, which was a part of a few live performances. This exhibition, photographed by Shivani Gupta, with a focus on performances using masks as props beautifully captured the essence of live performances. The photographs preserved the emotions and energy of the performances, allowing viewers to engage with themes of identity and change even after the live acts ended. One photograph of the exhibit particularly stood out to me, it was Farah Naz Moon’s performance with a green paper sheet.

In this simple piece Called 'How to live together?’, the artist held a large sheet of green paper that moved with her breath and the wind, seemingly merging her with the background. The paper gently covered her face, blurring her identity while locating her presence in the space. Like she was becoming one with her surroundings, not by disappearing but by blending into the context around her.

How to live together?

This reminded me of our architectural practice- Grounded in Goa. When we design villas in Goa, especially with projects that engage with the natural beauty of the land like the House with Three Pavilions and Nivim, we strive for something similar. Architecture that doesn’t dominate but complements. We don’t hide the building behind metaphorical paper sheets, but we design in a way that responds to the environment. 

Spaces that belong

HH Art Spaces

If you're in Goa and love art, be sure to visit HH Art Spaces in Aldona. Located beside a beautiful St. Thomas’ Church with a stunning view, they showcase exhibitions that bring together contemporary art and performance. It's a must-visit for art enthusiasts, young artists, and art collectors looking to explore something unique.

St. Thomas’ Church

During my recent trip to Gujarat for the FOAID event in Ahmedabad, for a talk about our practice in Goa, Grounded. I visited ‘Amdavad Ni Gufa’ where art meets architecture quite literally. This extraordinary art gallery designed by B. V. Doshi, houses the works of the famous artist M. F. Husain. Also known as the Hussain-Doshi Gufa, the design of the space perfectly complements the art in it. The curves, openings, and enclosures create a unique environment with light and shadow playing beautifully throughout the space.

Amdavad Ni Gufa was born out of a conversation between Doshi and Husain that took place thirty years before the project began. The design was a response to the climate, exploring the benefits of underground spaces. The tortoise shell-shaped roof was computer-aided and employed local craftspeople. Made from ferro-cement and then covered with a mosaic of waste tiles and broken cutlery. These tiles reflect sunlight and help keep the interiors cooler than the outside.

Source: ©Hussain-Doshi Gufa

For art lovers visiting Ahmedabad, Amdavad Ni Gufa is a must-visit. It’s not just about the art on the walls; it’s about the entire experience of being in this space. The Gufa leaves a lasting impression, offering a cool, peaceful environment like an ancient cave of modern heritage.

On one of our Villas in Goa sites for Grounded Villas, we faced the need to cut down a few teak trees onsite. Instead of letting this valuable wood go to waste, we saw an opportunity and decided to reuse it creatively.

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Working with a local craftsman, Nereus Drego in Goa, we designed the teak into custom-made furniture pieces. The furniture pieces are a long country table for the eat-in kitchen for Toybox, along with two uniquely designed center tables.

These furniture pieces not only stand out for their beautiful design but also hold sentimental value. It's crafted from the very trees that once were a part of the site, creating a lasting connection. It's our little effort to savor the precious resources of the environment and the trees in Goa.

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Using natural materials in our interiors aligns with our philosophy of ecological design by blending indoor spaces with nature. One of the center tables is interactive and designed for a family that opens up into small storage for display. The long table in Toybox's kitchen serves as a focal point, as the double-height kitchen space is the heart of the house. Toybox is about to launch soon! Subscribe to our newsletter to learn more about Toybox and our sustainable design practices.

We love designs that at once marry form and function and do so with panache. As we design our houses in Goa, we are constantly on the lookout for products that elevate a spatial experience through colour, texture, and shape - all without compromising on functional capabilities. The Rio lamp by designer Harshita Jhamtani delivers all this and more.

The Rio shines in different natural stone finishes ranging from White Travertine, Bheslana stone, Green Forest Marble, and Sandstone, among others. In each case, the designer says, “All the lamps are carved out of a single block and have a fluting detail complimenting the properties of each stone.” The diverse options available ensure that there’s a Rio that works for every design style and every kind of space.

Furthermore, the Rio is built to last. In interpreting sustainability, Harshita Jhamtani qualifies, “As a studio, we believe that the most sustainable practice for a designer to adapt, is to create products that their patrons can buy once and cherish for a longtime. We bring this very dream to life by creating long-lasting unique pieces that shall take a small step towards accelerating the low carbon economy.”

Images courtesy Harshita Jhamtani designs

The Rio lamp is minimal, yet artful and robust with its material sensibilities. It is a beautiful way of bringing the elements of the outdoors, indoors. It is timeless in its rustic simplicity.

A few years ago we were set the task of designing an outdoor spa for one of our projects. The site was a house in Goa and surrounded by spectacular heritage buildings with unique forms and features that are no longer found in present day construction. We decided to use this as the inspiration and decided on a relaxing outdoor spa which would embody some of these details and elements found in these quaint, old structures. We set out to map and document these historic houses, institutions, and simple details of Goa through photographs and drawings. The illustrations below are part of this extensive archival project, and a fun take on some of the beautiful Chapels and Gateways that characterise Old Goa.

Goa is beautiful and rich in its diversity. It has something to offer to every visitor. In this blogpost, we have created a quick map with some of Goa’s best - your very own printable checklist of what to see, where to go and what to do over your next Goa trip. The map has a mix of old houses in Goa, its most popular beaches, the best natural and wildlife sanctuaries in Goa among other popular destinations. For a detailed breakdown of the differences and similarities between North Goa and South Goa, click on the map to read our analysis comparing the two districts.

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Unlike the other colonial powers in India, the Portuguese managed to leave a much more visible mark on the residential architecture of the area they ruled. The British and the French left their mark on the architecture of huge buildings such as assemblies and railway stations which have since become landmarks of the period.

The Portuguese in Goa built residential houses reflecting a style which is hardly found elsewhere on the Indian subcontinent. These magnificent palatial houses inspired by European architectural style are still found in Goa today, although they are confined to the rural areas such as Chandrapura, Chandor and Loutolim. These mansions were built in an era when the Portuguese had handsome profits from their trading colonies in Africa and South America.

This blogpost looks at some of the old heritage houses of South Goa which were inspired by European architectural styles and stand tall even today.

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Braganza House

The Braganza House is 350 years old and occupies one entire side of the village square in Chandor. This elaborate mansion is spread over 10,000 sqm and is divided into two wings that are occupied by the Braganza family. The palatial house has a stunning ballroom, massive Belgian crystal chandeliers, exquisite antiques collected over centuries and the oldest private library in Goa with over 5000 books.

Palacio do Deao

Palacio do Deao, a 213 years old mansion, was built by a Portuguese noble man, who was the Dean of the Church, and founder of Quepem town. The house faces the Church he built and is on the banks of the wildly beautiful Kushavati River. Here’s a video about the lovely house.

Figueirido House

The magnificent Figueirido House in Loutolim took shape as early as 1590, at a time when the Taj Mahal was yet to be conceived. The Figueiredo family had a prominent presence in Goa as lawyers, diplomats and ambassadors. Today, the family has converted part of this palatial home into a historic museum with yet another section opened out as a breathtaking heritage homestay for visitors. Take a virtual tour through this palatial estate here.

Casa Araujo Alvares

This 250-year-old mansion belongs to the Alvares family and forms part of the Ancestral Goa tourist complex, set up to recreate Goan village life under Portuguese rule. The house has a spacious courtyard, a quaint chapel at its centre, old European furniture like most of its contemporaries and eclectic seashell windows that bring the beach inside.

To know more about the hidden gems of South Goa, read The Charms of South Goa - Part I

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