At Grounded, where our office has been in Goa since 2010, we often go on heritage walks and bird-watching expeditions as a team to get to know each other as well as to get to know Goa. This time, we ventured into South Goa, villages of Assolna and Velim for a heritage walk organized by the Museum of Christian Art. Headed by Clive Figueiredo and Noah Fernandes. Our walk began at the Holy Cross Chapel Baradi, with stunning views of the area that we were about to explore. Followed by St. Francis Xavier Church, Velim, and Regina Martyrum Church, Assolna. 

Goa has more spoken traditions than written records. One such cultural tradition makes Velim village, important for the locals. The Churches here are not as elaborate as the churches in the north or other parts of Goa but have a historical importance. We started with St. Francis Xavier Church, Velim established in the 19th century. The facade of this chapel has a bell tower at the top center which is neoclassical, and has minimal features having IHS insignia. The facade can also be counted as Art Deco in Goa because of the sunburst on the sides. 

As we went inside the Church we were briefed about the iconography associated with elaborate features of the structure. For example, in Asolna the majority of locals are shipbearers so the Our Lady in the church holds a silver or wooden carved ship in her hand. We also learned about dying features like the Pulpit. Which is not in use anymore and some churches are removing those elements. In this church, because the staircase on the other side of the wall leading to the pulpit is now removed, it just floats on the wall with no way to access it. 

Pulpit

As the time passes, both the churches have gone through some modifications. We learned how by observing the color, sometimes the material, and intricacy in ornamentation we can tell the time period of that object. Both the churches we visited were of a different time -so we could observe the variations in detail and changes done over time. 

Our final stop was Regina Martyrum Church, Assolna. There is photographic evidence of this church having a fort wall remains in its premises back in the day. This chapel was more elaborate and huge with its school premises, offices, cemetery, and the Cristo Rei monument! We learned about the church and its mosaic tiles, wooden carvings, and iconography. One of the most fascinating moments of the walk was exploring the closet of ceremonial items inside the church building. 

It was a very good effort by the Museum of Christian Art to bring together a group of interested people from different backgrounds. We were also accompanied by residents from the Museum of Christian Art Society for the walk. The heritage walk was not just for architects, it was a wonderful gathering of local enthusiasts, conservationists, and historians, all passionate about Goa's rich cultural fabric. Whether you're living in Goa or you are new to Goa, this heritage walk can help you connect with the city a little better.

Holy Cross Chapel, Baradi

St. Francis Xavier Church, Velim

Regina Martyrum Church, Assolna

Cristo Rei, Assolna

Read more about South Goa and Goan Heritage

A few years ago we were set the task of designing an outdoor spa for one of our projects. The site was a house in Goa and surrounded by spectacular heritage buildings with unique forms and features that are no longer found in present day construction. We decided to use this as the inspiration and decided on a relaxing outdoor spa which would embody some of these details and elements found in these quaint, old structures. We set out to map and document these historic houses, institutions, and simple details of Goa through photographs and drawings. The illustrations below are part of this extensive archival project, and a fun take on some of the beautiful Chapels and Gateways that characterise Old Goa.

Geoffrey Bawa is an unforgettable and continuous inspiration. With every project we embark on, we see our inspiration translate into our work - in design, in spatial character, in connection and reverence towards nature - finding new meaning in every site we build on. Finding Bawa is a gallery we have compiled as an ode to the master architect. As we reflect on our projects, it feels great to see many of our spaces carrying the sensibilities and sensitivites that Bawa inspired throughout his practice.

Geoffrey Bawa was one of the original proponents of Tropical Modernism, a design movement in which sensitivity for local context combines with the form-making principles of modernism. His architecture led to the formation of a new architectural identity and aesthetic, redefining what it meant to be modern, celebrating a close connection with one’s built and natural environments.

In 1960, Bawa was commissioned to design the house for artist Ena De Silva. Set in Colombo, the plot was very much enmeshed in the busy urban fabric with the activity and movement of any capital city.

Bawa’s first response was to turn the house in on itself and resurrect the courtyard. The house was conceived as a series of pavilions and verandas contained within a high surrounding boundary wall. A major central courtyard led forward to five smaller satellite courtyards. Light and air poured into every room, with notions of inside and outside blurred nearly beyond distinction.

Its spatial qualities were enhanced by the choice of materials: walls of plastered brick, roofs of half-round Portuguese tiles, columns of satin wood, windows of timber lattice, floors of rough granite- materials that were used in ancient Sri Lankan mansions, but brought together in the contemporary open plan format, assembled in an entirely different manner.

After nearly 40 years of living here, Ena was finally forced to sell the house owing to health concerns and mounting bills. Her land in central Colombo was immensely valuable and was quickly snapped up by an adjoining hospital. But the idea of demolition was met by public outcry that made Urban Development Authority insist that the house must be preserved in its entirety.

This is when the Bawa Trust proposed an unusual solution - to move the house in order to reconstruct it. A team of architects, archaeologists and development contractors came together, led by conservation specialist Nilan Cooray. Everything that could be salvaged from Ena de Silva’s home, including the doors and windows, was carefully collected, stored, and moved.

Unlike examples from Japan and Norway, where timber structures had been relocated successfully, Cooray had to work with masonry, some of which was falling apart. The house was stripped down to its bones - every pebble in the courtyard was numbered, every shape was traced, before he was done. They paid particular attention to replicating the structure’s orientation to the Sun, because that was essential to Bawa’s original palette of light and shadow. Working from the roof down, they dismantled the house, which was boxed up and loaded on to lorries to be carted off to a plot next door to Lunuganga, Bawa’s beautiful garden home.

The process took six years from start to finish, and the Ena De Silva house was finally assembled to completion in its new home in 2016.

Relying on black and white photos and surviving furniture, the Bawa Trust intends to return Ena’s house to a spitting image of how she had kept it, even replanting the garden with her choice of plants. It takes the spirit and act of conservation to uncharted territory, preserving Bawa’s legacy for generations to come.

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Goa is beautiful and rich in its diversity. It has something to offer to every visitor. In this blogpost, we have created a quick map with some of Goa’s best - your very own printable checklist of what to see, where to go and what to do over your next Goa trip. The map has a mix of old houses in Goa, its most popular beaches, the best natural and wildlife sanctuaries in Goa among other popular destinations. For a detailed breakdown of the differences and similarities between North Goa and South Goa, click on the map to read our analysis comparing the two districts.

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Unlike the other colonial powers in India, the Portuguese managed to leave a much more visible mark on the residential architecture of the area they ruled. The British and the French left their mark on the architecture of huge buildings such as assemblies and railway stations which have since become landmarks of the period.

The Portuguese in Goa built residential houses reflecting a style which is hardly found elsewhere on the Indian subcontinent. These magnificent palatial houses inspired by European architectural style are still found in Goa today, although they are confined to the rural areas such as Chandrapura, Chandor and Loutolim. These mansions were built in an era when the Portuguese had handsome profits from their trading colonies in Africa and South America.

This blogpost looks at some of the old heritage houses of South Goa which were inspired by European architectural styles and stand tall even today.

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Braganza House

The Braganza House is 350 years old and occupies one entire side of the village square in Chandor. This elaborate mansion is spread over 10,000 sqm and is divided into two wings that are occupied by the Braganza family. The palatial house has a stunning ballroom, massive Belgian crystal chandeliers, exquisite antiques collected over centuries and the oldest private library in Goa with over 5000 books.

Palacio do Deao

Palacio do Deao, a 213 years old mansion, was built by a Portuguese noble man, who was the Dean of the Church, and founder of Quepem town. The house faces the Church he built and is on the banks of the wildly beautiful Kushavati River. Here’s a video about the lovely house.

Figueirido House

The magnificent Figueirido House in Loutolim took shape as early as 1590, at a time when the Taj Mahal was yet to be conceived. The Figueiredo family had a prominent presence in Goa as lawyers, diplomats and ambassadors. Today, the family has converted part of this palatial home into a historic museum with yet another section opened out as a breathtaking heritage homestay for visitors. Take a virtual tour through this palatial estate here.

Casa Araujo Alvares

This 250-year-old mansion belongs to the Alvares family and forms part of the Ancestral Goa tourist complex, set up to recreate Goan village life under Portuguese rule. The house has a spacious courtyard, a quaint chapel at its centre, old European furniture like most of its contemporaries and eclectic seashell windows that bring the beach inside.

To know more about the hidden gems of South Goa, read The Charms of South Goa - Part I

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South Goa is paradise on earth with its lush paddy fields, old Portuguese mansions, numerous forests and sanctuaries, pristine beaches and rivers, quaint churches and magnificent forts. The streets of South Goa speak to a different era with a distinctive old world charm. In the first part of this two part blog post, we have selected a few of the quintessential South Goan charms from a long list of abundant natural and man-made wonders.

Cabo de Rama

Cabo de Rama is a relic left from times bygone. Once a magnificent fort that housed an entire community, it remains one of the oldest and largest forts of South Goa and offers a fantastic view of the Canacona Beach below.

Chandor & Loutolim

The villages of Chandor and Loutolim give you the giddy feeling of opening an old book. The Portuguese style sweeps elegantly across the villagescape, evident in the beautiful old world architecture and the laid back lifestyle. Both villages are famous for their centuries old colonial mansions that stand tall even today. We will be looking at these beautiful palatial homes in Part II of our blog post.

Netravali Lake

The Netravali Bubbling Lake in the Sanguem district is one of the lesser known beauties of South Goa. This one of a kind natural lake is known for its mysterious and continuous bubbling water surface throughout the year.

Galgibaga

The Galgibaga Beach is home to silver sands, endless rows of coconut trees and the charming Olive Ridley turtles which come onto the shores every year between November and February to nest and hatch. A ferry ride crossing the picturesque Galgibaga river is the best way to get to the beach.

Naval Aviation Museum

Established in 1947, Naval Aviation Museum offers a glimpse into military history. The museum is designed to look like the interior of a naval aircraft carrier with galleries displaying naval equipment and prominent battles, including a simulation room. It also has an outdoor aircraft park with an exhibition of old aircrafts and engines.The museum is set on a plateau and overlooks the scenic Bogmalo beach.

Mollem National Park

The Mollem National Park is set in a humble 240 sqkm belt nestled in the Western Ghats and houses a wide array of tropical flora and fauna with over 200 unique Indian species. Recognised as one of 36 most crucial biodiversity hotspots in the world, the sanctuary is now threatened by 3 infrastructure projects, announced by the state government. The alarming proposal resulted in widespread dissent with thousands of people coming together for the ‘Save Mollem’ campaign.

To know more about the hidden gems of South Goa, read The Charms of South Goa - Part II

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For Singapore Design Week, I joined a group of design lovers to tour design significant buildings in Singapore. 

I was bowled over when I walked into 145 Neil Road, a traditional Peranakan shophouse that has been refurbished into a contemporary sequence of spaces dotted with traditional elements, rustic finishes, exposed concrete, large sliding doors with clear glass and light-filled courtyards. Great inspiration for our forthcoming projects!

Source for images: Spoonful of Home Design 

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