At Grounded, where our office has been in Goa since 2010, we often go on heritage walks and bird-watching expeditions as a team to get to know each other as well as to get to know Goa. This time, we ventured into South Goa, villages of Assolna and Velim for a heritage walk organized by the Museum of Christian Art. Headed by Clive Figueiredo and Noah Fernandes. Our walk began at the Holy Cross Chapel Baradi, with stunning views of the area that we were about to explore. Followed by St. Francis Xavier Church, Velim, and Regina Martyrum Church, Assolna. 

Goa has more spoken traditions than written records. One such cultural tradition makes Velim village, important for the locals. The Churches here are not as elaborate as the churches in the north or other parts of Goa but have a historical importance. We started with St. Francis Xavier Church, Velim established in the 19th century. The facade of this chapel has a bell tower at the top center which is neoclassical, and has minimal features having IHS insignia. The facade can also be counted as Art Deco in Goa because of the sunburst on the sides. 

As we went inside the Church we were briefed about the iconography associated with elaborate features of the structure. For example, in Asolna the majority of locals are shipbearers so the Our Lady in the church holds a silver or wooden carved ship in her hand. We also learned about dying features like the Pulpit. Which is not in use anymore and some churches are removing those elements. In this church, because the staircase on the other side of the wall leading to the pulpit is now removed, it just floats on the wall with no way to access it. 

Pulpit

As the time passes, both the churches have gone through some modifications. We learned how by observing the color, sometimes the material, and intricacy in ornamentation we can tell the time period of that object. Both the churches we visited were of a different time -so we could observe the variations in detail and changes done over time. 

Our final stop was Regina Martyrum Church, Assolna. There is photographic evidence of this church having a fort wall remains in its premises back in the day. This chapel was more elaborate and huge with its school premises, offices, cemetery, and the Cristo Rei monument! We learned about the church and its mosaic tiles, wooden carvings, and iconography. One of the most fascinating moments of the walk was exploring the closet of ceremonial items inside the church building. 

It was a very good effort by the Museum of Christian Art to bring together a group of interested people from different backgrounds. We were also accompanied by residents from the Museum of Christian Art Society for the walk. The heritage walk was not just for architects, it was a wonderful gathering of local enthusiasts, conservationists, and historians, all passionate about Goa's rich cultural fabric. Whether you're living in Goa or you are new to Goa, this heritage walk can help you connect with the city a little better.

Holy Cross Chapel, Baradi

St. Francis Xavier Church, Velim

Regina Martyrum Church, Assolna

Cristo Rei, Assolna

Read more about South Goa and Goan Heritage

Grounded in Goa is a series that documents the everyday beauties and joys of living in Goa. For anyone looking to move to Goa, it offers a glimpse into Goa's undeniable connection with nature, a life lived in harmony with the fertile land, changing skies, and the giving waters.

Also read - What To Look For While Buying A House in Goa and Designing a House in Goa

We have recently started work on a small house for a lovely young family in Talpona village in Goa. The focus will be on indoor-outdoor living and creating opportunities to connect with nature. The project site is contoured and verdant, with lush trees meeting the eye every side we turn. Our vision for the project is to bring land and life together, through timeless contemporary-vernacular architecture. As we explore the relationships between space and site, we ask ourselves repeatedly,

What are the views that we can frame? How can we create open, continuous and connected spaces? How much light and breeze comes through? How can we create pockets around different natural clusters? How will each space change with time to allow for multiple experiences?

If there is one market that truly embodies the spirit of Goa, it has to be Mapusa Market. Mapusa is an incredible medley of sight, sound and colour everyday but its Friday bazaars are a sight to behold. It comes alive with the swish of textile, the clang of metal and the aroma of fresh spices as local vendors from all over Goa flock together to sell their wares.

Mapusa Market has always been one of the primary centers for trade and shopping in Goa for many decades now. In fact, the story goes that the market grew to be so significant, that the town that developed around it was derived from the business conducted at the market. The Konkani words, “map” (meaning to measure) and “sa” (meaning to fill up) are combined to form the word mapusa.

We came across some brilliant visual documentation of Mapusa’s repair shops, fabric stores flower bazaars, and condiment outlets curated by the Mapping Mapusa Market project and this blogpost is an ode to the exhaustive research that they have done.

Stories of Repair and Recycle by Sahil Konkar

A series of videos by Sahil and Prashant that heroes the people that put our lives together. Read more about the famous repair points in Mapusa Market here and watch them in action using the playlist below.

Flower Power by Mythili Borkar

Flower Power immortalises the potent yet delicate imagery that make up Mapusa’s flower bazaar, as well as the aspirations tied to them. Find the seies in focus here.

Mapping Sugarcane by stanzinlosal

The story of 8 sugarcane juice shops spread across Mapusa Market, Goa has been mapped and developed into short films. Find this lovely story here.

Completed in 2014, these visual histories offer amazing perspective into the Mapusa and Goa of today and the many layers of their making. It helps develop a cohesive understanding of the relationships between place, space, activity, and community.

If you are ever in Goa, definitely pay a visit to witness the life and times of Mapusa Market.

To read about the different places and experiences Goa has in store for you, visit our map - Goa At A Glance.

To know more about North and South Goa, visit our blogpost on North Goa vs South Goa

To visit South Goa’s stunning bungalows, take a look at our top picks here.

A few years ago we were set the task of designing an outdoor spa for one of our projects. The site was a house in Goa and surrounded by spectacular heritage buildings with unique forms and features that are no longer found in present day construction. We decided to use this as the inspiration and decided on a relaxing outdoor spa which would embody some of these details and elements found in these quaint, old structures. We set out to map and document these historic houses, institutions, and simple details of Goa through photographs and drawings. The illustrations below are part of this extensive archival project, and a fun take on some of the beautiful Chapels and Gateways that characterise Old Goa.

Goa is beautiful and rich in its diversity. It has something to offer to every visitor. In this blogpost, we have created a quick map with some of Goa’s best - your very own printable checklist of what to see, where to go and what to do over your next Goa trip. The map has a mix of old houses in Goa, its most popular beaches, the best natural and wildlife sanctuaries in Goa among other popular destinations. For a detailed breakdown of the differences and similarities between North Goa and South Goa, click on the map to read our analysis comparing the two districts.

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Unlike the other colonial powers in India, the Portuguese managed to leave a much more visible mark on the residential architecture of the area they ruled. The British and the French left their mark on the architecture of huge buildings such as assemblies and railway stations which have since become landmarks of the period.

The Portuguese in Goa built residential houses reflecting a style which is hardly found elsewhere on the Indian subcontinent. These magnificent palatial houses inspired by European architectural style are still found in Goa today, although they are confined to the rural areas such as Chandrapura, Chandor and Loutolim. These mansions were built in an era when the Portuguese had handsome profits from their trading colonies in Africa and South America.

This blogpost looks at some of the old heritage houses of South Goa which were inspired by European architectural styles and stand tall even today.

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Braganza House

The Braganza House is 350 years old and occupies one entire side of the village square in Chandor. This elaborate mansion is spread over 10,000 sqm and is divided into two wings that are occupied by the Braganza family. The palatial house has a stunning ballroom, massive Belgian crystal chandeliers, exquisite antiques collected over centuries and the oldest private library in Goa with over 5000 books.

Palacio do Deao

Palacio do Deao, a 213 years old mansion, was built by a Portuguese noble man, who was the Dean of the Church, and founder of Quepem town. The house faces the Church he built and is on the banks of the wildly beautiful Kushavati River. Here’s a video about the lovely house.

Figueirido House

The magnificent Figueirido House in Loutolim took shape as early as 1590, at a time when the Taj Mahal was yet to be conceived. The Figueiredo family had a prominent presence in Goa as lawyers, diplomats and ambassadors. Today, the family has converted part of this palatial home into a historic museum with yet another section opened out as a breathtaking heritage homestay for visitors. Take a virtual tour through this palatial estate here.

Casa Araujo Alvares

This 250-year-old mansion belongs to the Alvares family and forms part of the Ancestral Goa tourist complex, set up to recreate Goan village life under Portuguese rule. The house has a spacious courtyard, a quaint chapel at its centre, old European furniture like most of its contemporaries and eclectic seashell windows that bring the beach inside.

To know more about the hidden gems of South Goa, read The Charms of South Goa - Part I

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South Goa is paradise on earth with its lush paddy fields, old Portuguese mansions, numerous forests and sanctuaries, pristine beaches and rivers, quaint churches and magnificent forts. The streets of South Goa speak to a different era with a distinctive old world charm. In the first part of this two part blog post, we have selected a few of the quintessential South Goan charms from a long list of abundant natural and man-made wonders.

Cabo de Rama

Cabo de Rama is a relic left from times bygone. Once a magnificent fort that housed an entire community, it remains one of the oldest and largest forts of South Goa and offers a fantastic view of the Canacona Beach below.

Chandor & Loutolim

The villages of Chandor and Loutolim give you the giddy feeling of opening an old book. The Portuguese style sweeps elegantly across the villagescape, evident in the beautiful old world architecture and the laid back lifestyle. Both villages are famous for their centuries old colonial mansions that stand tall even today. We will be looking at these beautiful palatial homes in Part II of our blog post.

Netravali Lake

The Netravali Bubbling Lake in the Sanguem district is one of the lesser known beauties of South Goa. This one of a kind natural lake is known for its mysterious and continuous bubbling water surface throughout the year.

Galgibaga

The Galgibaga Beach is home to silver sands, endless rows of coconut trees and the charming Olive Ridley turtles which come onto the shores every year between November and February to nest and hatch. A ferry ride crossing the picturesque Galgibaga river is the best way to get to the beach.

Naval Aviation Museum

Established in 1947, Naval Aviation Museum offers a glimpse into military history. The museum is designed to look like the interior of a naval aircraft carrier with galleries displaying naval equipment and prominent battles, including a simulation room. It also has an outdoor aircraft park with an exhibition of old aircrafts and engines.The museum is set on a plateau and overlooks the scenic Bogmalo beach.

Mollem National Park

The Mollem National Park is set in a humble 240 sqkm belt nestled in the Western Ghats and houses a wide array of tropical flora and fauna with over 200 unique Indian species. Recognised as one of 36 most crucial biodiversity hotspots in the world, the sanctuary is now threatened by 3 infrastructure projects, announced by the state government. The alarming proposal resulted in widespread dissent with thousands of people coming together for the ‘Save Mollem’ campaign.

To know more about the hidden gems of South Goa, read The Charms of South Goa - Part II

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Goa has a number of good schools that offer an enriching and inclusive academic environment to the students. In this blog post, we have put together a list of some of the most renowned schools in the state for parents who will soon be moving to Goa or are looking at the viability of living in Goa. The list covers a broad spectrum of top schools affiliated with various boards with a focus on holistic learning environments. The following schools are popular for balancing classroom education with experiences and practical application.

Paradise School in Goa

Sharada Mandir School

Founded in 1966, Sharada Mandir School was set up as the first school in Goa affiliated to The Council for the Indian School Certificate Examination (ICSE).

Sharada Mandir School, Panjim

The institution is made up of five separate sections: Elementary, Junior, Middle, Secondary and Higher Secondary. The school has around 2400 students and 130 faculty members with a low student-faculty ratio to ensures small classes with great interaction. The Sharada Mandir School Campus is green and beautiful, spread over an area of approxiamtely 15,000 sq.mts. It is located opposite the Miramar beach which makes for a serene and idyllic ambience.

The Ardee School

The Ardee School Goa is located in Sangolda. Established in 2008, the school offers the International Cambridge Curriculum and the National Curriculum of England and Wales at Key Stage 2 and 3 and offers the IGCSE at Year 10.

The Ardee School, Sangolda

The campus is split into 2 major blocks - the Junior and Senior School, in close proximity of each other. The school is designed in a heritage building with an open layout. It is built to provide a setting for the child to perceive the world through spatial dimensions, shapes and textures.

Sunshine Worldwide School

Sunshine Worldwide School, founded in June 2003, was one of the first CBSE schools with IB learning methodologies in Goa. Motivated to build a safe and creative learning space for children, the late Mrs. Swaran Khaitan, along with her son Deepak and daughter-in-law Sapna Khaitan brought this school to life.

The school is located in Goa Velha, sprawled over a 9000 sqm plot with a dedicated 2600 sqm playground. The campus is replete with facilities that include a well-stocked library, PC tablet laboratory, IT laboratory among others to promote research and activity based learning among the students

The Gera School

The Gera School was established in 1970. It is a Co-ed school affiliated to Cambridge Assessment International Education (CAIE).

The school is located in Panjim, Goa and is known as one of the best international schools in the city. The curriculum offers a blend of academics, arts, music, sports and life-skills training in areas such as Entreupreneurship, Communication, and Project Management to ensure holistic education.

Paradise School

Paradise School in Goa is for 6 to 18 year old children who wish to follow the Cambridge International Examinations Board. The school offers personalised learning programs and was accredited in 2017.

The school is situated in Aldona, in a 400 year old beautifully renovated Indo-Portuguese mansion, with large classrooms, big communal work areas, a generous dining room area and outside patio, set in an acre of land with an expansive swimming pool.

Manovikas School

Established in the year 1968, Manovikas School is among the most prestigious schools in Goa. The school has a ‘no exam policy’, with a Continuous Comprehensive Evaluation until standard 7.

In the past 50 years, the school has grown from a single class in a rented house with only two teachers to over 1,600 students, 93 teaching staff, 34 support staff and a sprawling campus measuring 35,000 sqm.

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Goa Map by Sarah Martin

Goa brings to mind images of earthly paradise with its golden coast, tropical greenery, a kaleidoscope like cityscape, and endless cultural experiences of various kinds. The idea of tourism in this state started off with local villagers opening their homes and kitchens, offering to show visitors around.

Goa officially became a state in May 1987. For easy management, it was then divided into two districts - North Goa and South Goa with Panjim and Margao as their respective headquarters. While both North Goa and South Goa embody the unique Goan ‘Sussegado’ spirit and have a plethora of options to choose from, there are some key differences in what they have to offer.

In a nutshell, North Goa has been the main magnet for tourists in the state. That has its positives, as North Goa now offers an amazing range of wonderful restaurants, bars, clubs and shopping boutiques. But some have begun to view North Goa as being a little ‘too-crowded’ and commercial with frequent traffic jams. South Goa on the contrary has retained its slow old Goa vibe. The beaches in South Goa are uncluttered and mostly occupied by high-end starred hotels that maintain them in relative pristine glory. South Goa is dotted with old Portuguese mansions and has fewer new concrete apartment buildings that dot North Goa. South Goa is known for its hidden gems such as the Cabo de Rama fort, Agonda beach and the Olive Ridley hatching sites at Galgibag beach.

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A Comparison of North Goa vs. South Goa

South Goa

The beaches of South Goa on the other hand are quieter with a close connection to nature. Palolem beach, Colva beach, Butterfly beach and Benaulim beach are well known for their scenic views and the pristine surroundings.

Exploring South Goa is largely oriented around experiences in nature with places like Cabo De Gama, Rivona caves, the Rachol Fort as well as its own share of bird and wildlife sanctuaries.

The houses in South Goa speak to a different era and have a certain old world charm. The areas close to Chandor and Loutolim are known for their lavish colonial bungalows built many years ago by the Portuguese nobility. The buildings here are spaced out and far apart, with a focus on stepping out into the quiet of nature undisturbed.

In South Goa, the buzz and activity of a streetside market is found in the town of Margao, in the markets of Colem, Palolem and Caculo as well as along parts of the Colva beach. The town of Arossim in South Goa offers some of the best Goan cuisine and is known for its occasional vintage furniture markets.

The Codigo and Mollem Wildlife Sanctuaries are known for their bird-rich forest and varied flora. Several nesting sites of Olive Ridley marine turtles are also to be found in the region including Galjibag in the far south.

North Goa

Beaches

The beaches of North Goa are generally favoured by short term tourists and water sport enthusiasts.

places of interest

North Goa is home to many captivating churches, the world heritage churches at old Goa, famous forts such as Fort Aguada and Chapora Fort, the Latin Quarter in Panjim, as well as gorgeous wildlife parks and stretches for dolphin spotting.

Cityscape

North Goa is a hub of activity and urban density but it also houses beautiful Portuguese settlements and numerous quaint Portuguese churches that have stood strong for centuries. The Portuguese influence is evident in areas like Fontainhas in Panjim with narrow lanes and bright colors.

Local Markets

North Goa brims with colourful flea markets that sell everything from clothes and accessories to souvenirs, handicrafts, pottery and local products at very low prices. The Saturday Night Market in Arpora, the Anjuna Market on Wednesday, and the Mapusa Market on Friday are visited by both tourists and visitors.

Wildlife

The Salim Ali Sanctuary, near Old Goa, is heaven for ornithologists. Mhadei Wildlife Sanctuary and Bondla Wildlife Sanctuary are famous reserves in North Goa