PC Parnavi Bangar

A compelling statue of Abbe Faria has been standing in the middle of a public square in Panjim, for 75 years, depicting him hypnotizing a woman. At a liminal place, between the current Panjim city and the history of Goa, with a forgotten legacy.  

Abbe Faria

(31 May 1756 – 20 September 1819)

was a Goan Catholic priest and one of the pioneers in the scientific study of hypnotism. Born José Custódio de Faria in Candolim, Bardez, Goa, he moved to Lisbon with his father in 1771.

Convincing the King of Portugal to support his studies, he went to Rome to pursue the priesthood, earning a doctorate and another degree focused on the Holy Spirit.

Faria departed from the then-popular theory of "magnetic fluid" in hypnotism, emphasizing instead the power of suggestion and the concept of autosuggestion. He demonstrated that what he termed "nervous sleep" was a natural state, laying the groundwork for modern hypnotism.

Faria’s impact extended beyond his scientific work; he also inspired the character Abbé Faria in Alexandre Dumas' 1844 novel "The Count of Monte Cristo." In the novel, the character is an imprisoned priest who teaches the protagonist various skills, reflecting Faria's real-life intellectual legacy.

PC Gaurav Sawant

Interestingly, the statue's location across from the gaudy casino boats on the Mandovi River offers a striking contrast. This juxtaposition encourages tourists to consider Goa beyond its party image, appreciating its rich history and Panjim’s historic urban fabric. The statue is hard to miss for those living in Goa or driving into Panjim, forgotten but in plain sight.

At Grounded, where our office has been in Goa since 2010, we often go on heritage walks and bird-watching expeditions as a team to get to know each other as well as to get to know Goa. This time, we ventured into South Goa, villages of Assolna and Velim for a heritage walk organized by the Museum of Christian Art. Headed by Clive Figueiredo and Noah Fernandes. Our walk began at the Holy Cross Chapel Baradi, with stunning views of the area that we were about to explore. Followed by St. Francis Xavier Church, Velim, and Regina Martyrum Church, Assolna. 

Goa has more spoken traditions than written records. One such cultural tradition makes Velim village, important for the locals. The Churches here are not as elaborate as the churches in the north or other parts of Goa but have a historical importance. We started with St. Francis Xavier Church, Velim established in the 19th century. The facade of this chapel has a bell tower at the top center which is neoclassical, and has minimal features having IHS insignia. The facade can also be counted as Art Deco in Goa because of the sunburst on the sides. 

As we went inside the Church we were briefed about the iconography associated with elaborate features of the structure. For example, in Asolna the majority of locals are shipbearers so the Our Lady in the church holds a silver or wooden carved ship in her hand. We also learned about dying features like the Pulpit. Which is not in use anymore and some churches are removing those elements. In this church, because the staircase on the other side of the wall leading to the pulpit is now removed, it just floats on the wall with no way to access it. 

Pulpit

As the time passes, both the churches have gone through some modifications. We learned how by observing the color, sometimes the material, and intricacy in ornamentation we can tell the time period of that object. Both the churches we visited were of a different time -so we could observe the variations in detail and changes done over time. 

Our final stop was Regina Martyrum Church, Assolna. There is photographic evidence of this church having a fort wall remains in its premises back in the day. This chapel was more elaborate and huge with its school premises, offices, cemetery, and the Cristo Rei monument! We learned about the church and its mosaic tiles, wooden carvings, and iconography. One of the most fascinating moments of the walk was exploring the closet of ceremonial items inside the church building. 

It was a very good effort by the Museum of Christian Art to bring together a group of interested people from different backgrounds. We were also accompanied by residents from the Museum of Christian Art Society for the walk. The heritage walk was not just for architects, it was a wonderful gathering of local enthusiasts, conservationists, and historians, all passionate about Goa's rich cultural fabric. Whether you're living in Goa or you are new to Goa, this heritage walk can help you connect with the city a little better.

Holy Cross Chapel, Baradi

St. Francis Xavier Church, Velim

Regina Martyrum Church, Assolna

Cristo Rei, Assolna

Read more about South Goa and Goan Heritage

Goa is known for its vibrant tourism with its stunning Goan villas, traditional wadas, and modern Goan houses lining the scenic streets. These picturesque homes are nestled among lush plantations and swaying trees in Goa. But have you ever paid attention to the intriguing details on the roofs of these old houses?

Take a closer look, and you’ll notice terracotta figures perched on the entrance gateways and atop the roofs. These old Portuguese houses in the Goa residential area date back 150 to 400 years. The tradition of placing these figures on the rooftops has been there from the beginning, though living in Goa many homeowners may not know their history or meaning. These figures are of soldiers, cockerels, rabbits, pigs, lions, and even seated human figures.

Soldados (Portuguese for soldiers) Saluting at the entrance of a house in Goa

They symbolize the identity of the homeowners, offering a glimpse into who resides beneath the roof without directly knowing them. For instance, lion motifs, mostly seen on the entrance gateways represent strength and signify a connection to the Kadamba Dynasty. The lion was the royal emblem of the Kadamba Dynasty which ruled Goa from the 10th to 14th centuries. Roosters, on the other hand, are linked to the rooster of Barcelos, a character symbolizing integrity and truth from a beloved Portuguese folktale, often seen on the roofs of Goan Catholic houses. Landlords' houses often featured animal motifs like lions, with the animal pointing in the direction of the property.

Rooftop Human, Source: Reddit

Lion on Gateways, Source: Soultravelling

Rooftop sentinel, Source: Gomantak Times

Architecturally, these figures contribute to the aesthetics of the rooftop by sitting on the meeting point of multiple roofs, adding to the visual appeal. The figurines on the gateways give a sense of richness to the visitors, like the massive fort gates. Today, these miniature ornaments are not just decorative; they are an integral part of Goa’s culture, reflecting the community’s rich past. They also connect us to the local artists of Goa who craft these terracotta artifacts, including the charming miniatures.

Curiosity often unveils hidden treasures. So, next time you wander through the streets of Goa, pause to admire these rooftop details. Who knows what stories you might uncover?

We have some much-awaited news!

Grounded will soon be launching 2 new luxury villas for sale in North Goa. Set within beautiful Aldona, the house is surrounded by peaceful green vistas and the rustic charm of the Goan countryside. With expansive living spaces, intimate pockets that look out to the pool, and nearly 3500 sqft of open space, the house seeks to offer seamless indoor-outdoor living. Like all our other residential projects, the villas will be sustainable, architecturally relevant, and closely connected to nature.

To know more about the villas,

It is such a joy to see our project House with Three Pavilions find beautiful space in print and on the cover of Livingetc Magazine’s June 2022 issue. Aptly titled - ‘A Home with A Verandah’, the article draws attention to our countryside Goan house’s tangible connection to nature. It throws light on our tropical modern design approach and celebrates our efforts to create seamless indoor-outdoor spaces that allow our clients to take everyday life outdoors.

Read the published story here.

If you are considering buying a house in Goa, read our blogpost: What to Look For While Buying A House in Goa

To know more about our design process, take a look at: Designing A House in Goa

Grounded in Goa is a series that documents the everyday beauties and joys of living in Goa. For anyone looking to move to Goa, it offers a glimpse into Goa's undeniable connection with nature, a life lived in harmony with the fertile land, changing skies, and the giving waters.

Also read - What To Look For While Buying A House in Goa and Designing a House in Goa

Grounded in Goa is a series that documents the everyday beauties and joys of living in Goa. For anyone looking to move to Goa, it offers a glimpse into Goa's undeniable connection with nature, a life lived in harmony with the fertile land, changing skies, and the giving waters.

Also read - What To Look For While Buying A House in Goa and Designing a House in Goa

Image sourced from the internet.

Sweet summer memories for most of us involve climbing mango trees to pluck all the fresh fruit our hands could possibly reach. The mangoes of Goa are second to none, and the state is among the producers of the highest number of varieties of this delicious summer fruit. However, one particular local Goan mango trumps all others - Mankhurad!

Also known as Goa Mankur, Kurad, Malcorado, Corado etc, Mankhurad first entered the Goan belt in the early 1600s with the Portuguese travelers. With a cultivation history that spans centuries, this Goan variety has grown to become only sweeter with time. Today, the Portuguese Malcorado, is shipped all across India for its distinct taste and finds its way to the Goan summer table as fresh fruit, as well as jams, compotes and ice creams.

Life around the Mankhurad at Navovado

We were lucky to find five full grown, fruiting, and gloriously canopied Mankhurad trees on site when we began our design-development project Navovado. We have consciously preserved the vegetation and designed a modern Goan house around these magnificent mango trees that give us fresh, bountiful harvests in the summer and are a glorious green sight for sore eyes throughout the year.

Goa’s beaches are moving works of beauty and serenity and are packed with incredible biodiversity. We are spending time today observing the textures of the in between - equally of earth and equally of sea.

Grounded in Goa is a series that documents the everyday beauties and joys of living in Goa, in harmony with the fertile land, changing skies, and the giving waters.

As people move from cities in search of a better quality of life, Goa is often the first choice as it offers the perfect balance of the urban and the countryside. It makes room for a simple but luxurious lifestyle that celebrates the changes in nature, vegetation, and climate throughout the year. From Kokum in the late winter to cashews and mangoes in the summer to the famous kom and pipri in the monsoon, life in Goa is very much about savouring the bounties of seasonal living.

Come summer, it is cashew season in Goa and the trees are laden with fruits in sunset colours - the cashew tree swells with ripe produce in shades of red, yellow and orange. Between late February and early April, a majority of cashew harvest is carried out. Picking days are planned and cashew trails are organised as fruit is separated from nut. The freshly collected cashew nut is then prepared for the market - split, roasted, and seasoned before it makes it way to different parts of Goa, India, and beyond. The fresh cashew fruit however is carefully preserved and fashioned into a Goan summer delicacy. As the days grow warm outside, the Goan cashew fruit makes different appearances on the table throughout the season: first Niro, then Urrak, and finally Feni.

NIRO

After the fallen cashew apples are de-seeded, the fruits are thrown into a stomp pit and finely crushed to extract the juice. Sweet, sour and slightly pungent, the juice is collected into an earthen pot. In this fresh form, the juice called Niro has a shelf life of only a few hours and therefore, it is not commonly sold as a market product even within Goa. It is only within Panaji's oldest bakery, Mr. Baker 1922, that one would find bottled Niro, packaged under strict hygienic conditions and sold seasonally between March and May.

URRAK

All images have been sourced from the internet.

Once the fresh cashew juice is collected, it is stored in large terracotta pots and buried underground to ferment for three days. This first fermentation results in a high-quality, fruity alcohol called Urrak made precious by its short shelf life that lasts only a few weeks. Found in local bars but primarily in old Goan houses, Urrak is a seasonal drink that is a matter of great Goan pride, much like Sake from Japan or Chaang from the Himachali hills. The Goans typically enjoy their Urrak as a summer afternoon cocktail - topped with fresh cold limca, a dash of fresh lemon juice, a sprinkle of salt and paprika, and a chilli dunked.

FENI

Finally, there’s the popular Feni, which finds a place among the world’s strongest liquors. Feni is the second distillation of cashew pulp after Urrak and is found year-round in the coastal state. This summer elixir is either barrel-aged or copper pot distilled and then filtered for smoothness. Today, homegrown Goan distilleries like Aani Ek give the robust Feni a flavourful twist. The distinct local branding is also found in brands like Lembarca (in the image above), which to date carries a hand sketched label crafted by iconic Goan artist Mario Miranda.

---

Goa is a land of incredible natural and cultural diversity.

Learn more about Goa’s famous native landscape here.

To know more about where to live in Goa, visit this blogpost.

Finally, if you’re interested in buying a house in Goa, use this checklist.

---