PC Parnavi Bangar

A compelling statue of Abbe Faria has been standing in the middle of a public square in Panjim, for 75 years, depicting him hypnotizing a woman. At a liminal place, between the current Panjim city and the history of Goa, with a forgotten legacy.  

Abbe Faria

(31 May 1756 – 20 September 1819)

was a Goan Catholic priest and one of the pioneers in the scientific study of hypnotism. Born José Custódio de Faria in Candolim, Bardez, Goa, he moved to Lisbon with his father in 1771.

Convincing the King of Portugal to support his studies, he went to Rome to pursue the priesthood, earning a doctorate and another degree focused on the Holy Spirit.

Faria departed from the then-popular theory of "magnetic fluid" in hypnotism, emphasizing instead the power of suggestion and the concept of autosuggestion. He demonstrated that what he termed "nervous sleep" was a natural state, laying the groundwork for modern hypnotism.

Faria’s impact extended beyond his scientific work; he also inspired the character Abbé Faria in Alexandre Dumas' 1844 novel "The Count of Monte Cristo." In the novel, the character is an imprisoned priest who teaches the protagonist various skills, reflecting Faria's real-life intellectual legacy.

PC Gaurav Sawant

Interestingly, the statue's location across from the gaudy casino boats on the Mandovi River offers a striking contrast. This juxtaposition encourages tourists to consider Goa beyond its party image, appreciating its rich history and Panjim’s historic urban fabric. The statue is hard to miss for those living in Goa or driving into Panjim, forgotten but in plain sight.

At Grounded, we design villas in Goa that embrace the cultural roots of the state. Each of our projects reflects the essence of living in Goa, connecting with the rich heritage and slow, peaceful ‘Sussegad’ lifestyle. You’ll find home objects familiar to Goa in every corner of our designs, from rooster-shaped water jugs to coconut shell spoons and charming terracotta figurines. 

To find these unique artifacts we love to go treasure hunting at the special Friday market of Mapusa in North Goa. A labyrinth of streets, the market is filled with local flavor and vigor. Village ladies travel from all over Goa to sell their wares, local produce, and home-cooked goodies. 

mapusa market, north goa

In the bylanes, there is a section dedicated to the local terracotta pottery only on Fridays. Along with the famous Goan terracotta roof figurines, one can find other lovely pieces of pottery like terracotta wall hangings, Ghumotts (terracotta musical instruments), piggy banks, pots, and a lot more. It is the pinnacle of local arts and crafts. The collection keeps changing as new designs and new pieces are made. Every item is handmade, showcasing craftsmanship and offering a glimpse into the traditional Goan way of life.

Terracotta pottery and figurines

Whether you’re looking for unique Goan home décor or simply want to immerse yourself in retail therapy, this market is a must-visit for finding Goan treasures in North Goa. Everything from local pottery to everyday life is available here in one place. 

Read more about the Mapusa market here. 

Read about the significance of Terracotta Figurines. 

At Grounded, where our office has been in Goa since 2010, we often go on heritage walks and bird-watching expeditions as a team to get to know each other as well as to get to know Goa. This time, we ventured into South Goa, villages of Assolna and Velim for a heritage walk organized by the Museum of Christian Art. Headed by Clive Figueiredo and Noah Fernandes. Our walk began at the Holy Cross Chapel Baradi, with stunning views of the area that we were about to explore. Followed by St. Francis Xavier Church, Velim, and Regina Martyrum Church, Assolna. 

Goa has more spoken traditions than written records. One such cultural tradition makes Velim village, important for the locals. The Churches here are not as elaborate as the churches in the north or other parts of Goa but have a historical importance. We started with St. Francis Xavier Church, Velim established in the 19th century. The facade of this chapel has a bell tower at the top center which is neoclassical, and has minimal features having IHS insignia. The facade can also be counted as Art Deco in Goa because of the sunburst on the sides. 

As we went inside the Church we were briefed about the iconography associated with elaborate features of the structure. For example, in Asolna the majority of locals are shipbearers so the Our Lady in the church holds a silver or wooden carved ship in her hand. We also learned about dying features like the Pulpit. Which is not in use anymore and some churches are removing those elements. In this church, because the staircase on the other side of the wall leading to the pulpit is now removed, it just floats on the wall with no way to access it. 

Pulpit

As the time passes, both the churches have gone through some modifications. We learned how by observing the color, sometimes the material, and intricacy in ornamentation we can tell the time period of that object. Both the churches we visited were of a different time -so we could observe the variations in detail and changes done over time. 

Our final stop was Regina Martyrum Church, Assolna. There is photographic evidence of this church having a fort wall remains in its premises back in the day. This chapel was more elaborate and huge with its school premises, offices, cemetery, and the Cristo Rei monument! We learned about the church and its mosaic tiles, wooden carvings, and iconography. One of the most fascinating moments of the walk was exploring the closet of ceremonial items inside the church building. 

It was a very good effort by the Museum of Christian Art to bring together a group of interested people from different backgrounds. We were also accompanied by residents from the Museum of Christian Art Society for the walk. The heritage walk was not just for architects, it was a wonderful gathering of local enthusiasts, conservationists, and historians, all passionate about Goa's rich cultural fabric. Whether you're living in Goa or you are new to Goa, this heritage walk can help you connect with the city a little better.

Holy Cross Chapel, Baradi

St. Francis Xavier Church, Velim

Regina Martyrum Church, Assolna

Cristo Rei, Assolna

Read more about South Goa and Goan Heritage

During a recent visit to HH Art Spaces in Aldona, Goa opened in 2014, I saw the ‘Déjà vu’ exhibition, which was a part of a few live performances. This exhibition, photographed by Shivani Gupta, with a focus on performances using masks as props beautifully captured the essence of live performances. The photographs preserved the emotions and energy of the performances, allowing viewers to engage with themes of identity and change even after the live acts ended. One photograph of the exhibit particularly stood out to me, it was Farah Naz Moon’s performance with a green paper sheet.

In this simple piece Called 'How to live together?’, the artist held a large sheet of green paper that moved with her breath and the wind, seemingly merging her with the background. The paper gently covered her face, blurring her identity while locating her presence in the space. Like she was becoming one with her surroundings, not by disappearing but by blending into the context around her.

How to live together?

This reminded me of our architectural practice- Grounded in Goa. When we design villas in Goa, especially with projects that engage with the natural beauty of the land like the House with Three Pavilions and Nivim, we strive for something similar. Architecture that doesn’t dominate but complements. We don’t hide the building behind metaphorical paper sheets, but we design in a way that responds to the environment. 

Spaces that belong

HH Art Spaces

If you're in Goa and love art, be sure to visit HH Art Spaces in Aldona. Located beside a beautiful St. Thomas’ Church with a stunning view, they showcase exhibitions that bring together contemporary art and performance. It's a must-visit for art enthusiasts, young artists, and art collectors looking to explore something unique.

St. Thomas’ Church

Living in Goa during the monsoon is the most calm and serene experience. The weather is windy and rain is just around the corner, raining without a warning. Rains put a halt to the fishing boats and festivals are also about to come. It is also the breeding season of fish and many people prefer to turn to a vegetarian diet. Whether you're tending to your own vegetable garden at your villa in Goa or you visit local markets like Panjim Market for grocery shopping, you will see a wild range of seasonal produce in the rainy season.

Markets in Goa transform into a wild vegetable garden, with exotic wild monsoon veggies that most city dwellers are not even aware of. Panjim market in the monsoons is taken over by Goan women selling local vegetables. These veggies are naturally grown in nature’s organic garden. They grow commonly in the state’s green patches and are rich in vitamins and minerals.

Panjim Market

These are some commonly known monsoon veggies in Goa: Naval Kol (German Tulip), Kurdu (Celosia), Haldi (turmeric) leaves, Chauli (black-eyed peas) leaves, Aalu (Colocasia), Telpat Ranbhaji (Wild Veggies), Neerfanas (Breadfruit), Kantoli (Spine gourd), Shirali (ridge gourd), and Vaghate or Ranmeva (Ceylon Caper).

The veggies are also a part of the local festivals and rituals like the Rishi Panchami and Ganesh Chaturthi. Where a special meal is prepared for pooja with these wild local monsoon veggies. Apart from vegetables, there are local mushrooms which have very good taste, some late mangoes, Ole Khajur (raw dates), and local fruits like Papaya, Pumpkin, and Kohla (Ash Gourd).

Monsoons in Goa bring a quiet beauty to everyday life. The rains refresh the land, and the markets fill with fresh, wild vegetables. It’s a season where everything slows down, and people come together to enjoy simple meals made from local produce. There’s a calm in the air, and a sense of connection to nature and tradition. It’s a reminder of the peaceful, meaningful moments that make life in Goa so special.

During my recent trip to Gujarat for the FOAID event in Ahmedabad, for a talk about our practice in Goa, Grounded. I visited ‘Amdavad Ni Gufa’ where art meets architecture quite literally. This extraordinary art gallery designed by B. V. Doshi, houses the works of the famous artist M. F. Husain. Also known as the Hussain-Doshi Gufa, the design of the space perfectly complements the art in it. The curves, openings, and enclosures create a unique environment with light and shadow playing beautifully throughout the space.

Amdavad Ni Gufa was born out of a conversation between Doshi and Husain that took place thirty years before the project began. The design was a response to the climate, exploring the benefits of underground spaces. The tortoise shell-shaped roof was computer-aided and employed local craftspeople. Made from ferro-cement and then covered with a mosaic of waste tiles and broken cutlery. These tiles reflect sunlight and help keep the interiors cooler than the outside.

Source: ©Hussain-Doshi Gufa

For art lovers visiting Ahmedabad, Amdavad Ni Gufa is a must-visit. It’s not just about the art on the walls; it’s about the entire experience of being in this space. The Gufa leaves a lasting impression, offering a cool, peaceful environment like an ancient cave of modern heritage.

pc: Sanjeet Wahi

Google might suggest that winter is the best time to be in Goa, but have you ever experienced Goa during the monsoons? The weather in Goa during this season is slow and peaceful.  Just taking a walk around gives you a glimpse into the everyday life in Goa.

Cloudy sky | Cool breeze | Green landscapes

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You can watch people in their daily routines, cycling to places, fishing with a stick near creeks, and simply enjoying the weather. An evening visit to a nearby cafe can be a great way to end the day. Though the monsoons here can get heavy at times, a cup of coffee or tea by your window with a good book captures the essence of ‘Susegad’, the relaxed Goan lifestyle. A big plus is that Goa is less crowded with tourists during this off-season. Monsoon in Goa is a perfect escape from city life, offering a calm and natural retreat.

Published in 2016, ‘Indica: A Deep Natural History of the Indian Subcontinent’ by Pranay Lal offers a journey through the natural history of the Indian subcontinent. This book stands out for its unique approach to explaining evolution and natural history in a manner that is both accessible and captivating to readers of all backgrounds. The book spans a wide range of topics, from micro to macro. Covering everything from ancient fossils to fish, diverse climates, and the animals that inhabit the Western ghats to the Deserts in the Indian subcontinent. 

The book uses the Earth Woman analogy. This imaginative concept reimagines the 4.6 billion-year-old Earth as a 46-year-old woman by astrophysicist Nigel Calder. Allowing readers to visualize the planet's evolution over a human lifespan, making the complex timeline of Earth's history more approachable. The highlights of the book include facts like the ferocious Rajasaurus, an Indian dinosaur possibly more formidable than the T. rex, and 70-million-year-old crocodile eggs discovered in Mumbai and Bengaluru having its unique climate due to a tectonic event that took place 88 million years ago.

Indica: A Deep Natural History of the Indian Subcontinent is a fascinating exploration of Earth's history, told through the lens of a region rich in natural heritage. If you are curious enough about the world around you, Pranay Lal's work is sure to enrich your understanding and appreciation of our planet. Living in Goa, this book makes me reflect on the climate and ecosystems around me. The awareness about natural heritage is essential for sustainability, making the book useful for understanding the environment around us. Join our channel Climate Woes for more climate-related insights.

In the Western Ghats, the spread of non-native plant species is rapidly replacing native vegetation, causing significant ecological imbalance. This invasion is leading to a food crisis as these plants disrupt the natural habitats of key prey species. As a result, wildlife is forced to enter human settlements in search of food, increasing conflicts between animals and communities.

Western Ghats, pc: Parnavi Bangar

Invasive species like Lantana, African Tulips, and Morning Glory are widespread, causing notable damage to our ecosystems. These aggressive plants are not native to India and are displacing traditional fruit-bearing trees such as mangoes, wild jack, wild berries, and other native plants in various forests. Their rapid growth makes them difficult to control, posing a threat to the health of our forests.

Tall Morning Glory

Source: Guests who never left

The Tall Morning Glory also known as Kaladana is a fast-growing vine that can reach 2-3 meters in length, with slender, hairy stems and heart-shaped leaves. Its vibrant blue, purple, or pink flowers are funnel-shaped, and it produces up to 25,000 seeds per plant, which can spread by wind, rain, or accidental human activity.

Kaladana grows by twining around other plants, creating a thick canopy that shades and competes with them for nutrients and water. This makes it a troublesome weed, as it can significantly reduce crop yields. It can also spread rapidly in both disturbed areas and forests, making it a challenge to manage.

Young seedlings can be easily pulled out by hand. For small patches, cutting the plant is an option, but make sure to dig out the roots to prevent it from growing back. In areas where the vine forms large patches, cutting followed by herbicide application is recommended to stop regrowth.

African Tulip

Source: Guests who never left

The African Tulip, also known as Pichkari and Rugtoora is a medium-to-large tree that can grow up to 35 metres tall, with a wide crown and smooth, greyish-brown bark. It has deep green, glossy leaves and produces striking orange-scarlet flowers, with its seeds dispersed by wind.

Pichkari trees invade open pastures, abandoned agricultural land, plantations, and disturbed forests. They grow rapidly, forming dense stands that suppress other vegetation. The flower nectar is toxic to insects, while mammals like Nilgiri langur and barking deer eat the flowers, and parakeets and squirrels consume the seeds.

To manage African tulip trees, young trees can be uprooted, though large trees may resprout from root fragments. Chemical control includes injecting herbicide into young tree trunks or applying it to stumps of cut trees. In some areas, biological control using pathogenic fungi has been effective for young trees.

Lantana

Source: Guests who never left

Lantana, or Raimuniya and Tantani, is a woody shrub that grows 2-5 metres tall. It thrives in both dry and wet environments, forming dense thickets or climbing trees. Found across India, including Goa, its leaves are rough, oval, and green with toothed edges. The small, colourful flowers attract butterflies, and its fruit turns from green to black, dispersed by birds and mammals.

Lantana's dense growth prevents native plants from growing and changes forest structure. It increases fire risks and is toxic to livestock, reducing available forage. Lantana also hosts diseases like sandal spike disease and suppresses important plants like amla, posing risks to forest communities.

The most effective removal method is cutting the plant below the root collar to prevent regrowth. Uprooting is less effective and labour-intensive. Consistent removal and establishing canopy cover can help control Lantana.

Conclusion:

There are many such invasive plant species altering habitats in our forests. Managing them in the forests of the Western Ghats is crucial for preserving biodiversity and ecological balance. Raising awareness about such species and promoting knowledge about native trees is essential for safeguarding our environment. 

This understanding is particularly valuable for individuals managing their gardens, such as in Goa, where knowing about trees in Goa is crucial for effective plant management. For further information on such species refer the book ‘Guests who never left’ and the article ‘No food in Forests’ for Invasive species in the Western Ghats. For more tips on living in Goa and managing your home and garden, stay tuned to our blog!

On 5th July, I had the opportunity to speak at a wonderful evening event at Ahmedabad, hosted by FOAID India and Design Perspectives India. The event brought together architects and industry leaders for a productive conference. One of the highlights of the evening was the opportunity to exchange thoughts with the immensely talented Vin Varavarn from Vin Varavarn Architects in Thailand.

During my talk, I shared the vision of Grounded Goa, our architectural firm that focuses on sustainable design. I explained our design process and gave the audience a look at some of our key projects, especially our Villas in Goa.

At Grounded, we combine rustic and contemporary styles to create buildings that reconnect people with nature and the simple joys of life. Our goal is to bring fresh air, natural light, and a sense of well-being into every home we design. Goa Villas by Grounded is a special part of our firm that builds unique and sustainable houses in Goa. We take care of everything from design to construction, ensuring that each house reflects our commitment to both beauty and sustainability.

Listening to other speakers and engaging with the amazing audience was truly enriching. A big thank you to Hiren Patel, Dipen Gada, and Grid Architects for attending the event, and a special thanks to Shraddha for the invitation. The evening was beautiful, and I walked away having learned so much.